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Where Y'Eat: Fired up for Fried Chicken

Fried chicken from McHardy's Chicken & Fixin' in New Orleans.
Ian McNulty
Fried chicken from McHardy's Chicken & Fixin' in New Orleans.

Fried chicken gets people fired up, and I don’t just mean hungry. But why? I’ve done some digging, and some digging in, and I’ve found a few reasons, beyond the simple fact that it’s delicious.

The timing is important. Fried chicken is top of mind in New Orleans right now because this Sunday, Sept. 25, the new Fried Chicken Festival debuts downtown, in Lafayette Square. 

It follows the familiar format shared by many of the festivals that now crowd the New Orleans calendar. But the reason this one has struck a special chord isn’t because of a headlining band or a celebrity chef. It’s because of fried chicken, a dish with its own fan club.

Ask people why they get so excited about the stuff, and the answers are consistent if not too revealing. Most will point out that well, “everyone just loves fried chicken,” or more whimsical and vague still, that, “there’s just something about fried chicken.”

Indeed there is, and to get more insight on it I've been eating fried chicken and talking fried chicken with some of the vendors who will be on hand for the Fried Chicken Festival. Between the crunchy skin and the juicy meat there are common themes for our fried chicken fascination, and happily you can taste your way through them at the festival.

One: The appeal of fried chicken is universal, but the particulars behind it are highly personal.  Saying you love fried chicken isn't enough. It's like saying you’re into rock and roll. Who’s chicken? Which style? Name names.

Before New Orleans had much of a barbecue scene to speak of, there was already fierce pride and rivalry around fried chicken. Recipes, techniques, seasoning -- people talked about the fundamentals of their fried chicken the way others approach their brisket and ribs, or just as importantly, they refuse to talk about them at all. People have their favorites and the take them seriously.

Our second storyline here: Fried chicken is a Southern classic, but it’s also open for interpretation and for the stamp of other global flavors. We have a fried chicken tradition, but you can get creative with fried chicken and not get laughed out of the room. Make it a sandwich, a slider or a po-boy. Pair it with waffles, with bacon, with French fries or nachos or tacos. Fried chicken can be the main act or a gratuitous garnish and it remains compelling. The flavors change, the appeal endures.

And finally, reason number three for the fried chicken fixation: Fried chicken is an indulgence, but one that’s down home and as approachable as a hug from a loving aunt.

It goes beyond comfort food -- fried chicken might just be the ultimate down home party food. It’s made in big batches, it’s portable, there’s no utensils required, though you’d better than those napkins handy. You probably shouldn’t dig into the stuff daily, but at family events, on parade routes and at game day gatherings fried chicken feels right at home. 

Put all of this together for a festival, and, well, it’s no surprise when you see people flock to the box.

What: Fried Chicken Festival

When: Sunday, Sept. 25, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 

Where: Lafayette Square

About: Music from the Brass-a-holics, John Boutte, Sweet Crude, Tank and the Bangas and DJ Manny Fresh. Free admission. For details, see friedchickenfestival.com.

Ian covers food culture and dining in New Orleans through his weekly commentary series Where Y’Eat.

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