Ian McNulty


Ian covers food culture and dining in New Orleans through his weekly commentary series Where Y’Eat. 

Ian is also a staff writer for the daily newspaper the New Orleans Advocate, covering the culture, personality and trends behind the city’s famous dining scene.

He is the author of two books - “Louisiana Rambles: Exploring America’s Cajun and Creole Heartland,” a travel narrative about south Louisiana culture, and “A Season of Night: New Orleans Life After Katrina,” an account of the first months in the city after Hurricane Katrina.

He has been a contributor to WWNO since 2009.

Ian McNulty

The menu at Brigtsen’s Restaurant has always told stories. Between the brown butter, bright remoulade and smoky gumbo you can read the heritage of Louisiana food, the evolution of the modern New Orleans restaurant and friendships reaching back generations. Right now, the menu at Brigtsen‘s also tells a story of our times, all packed for takeout.

By Ken Hawkins via Wikimedia Commons

At various points through the coronavirus crisis, New Orleans restaurants have figured out the shift to takeout only, how to manage limited occupancy, how to operate one day at a time. Now, the question for many is simply how much longer they can hold on.  

Ian McNulty

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen made enormous contributions to the restaurant world. Perhaps now, even after it has served it last blackened fish, it can add one more to the list.

Red beans and rice at Dunbar's Creole Cuisine in New Orleans.
Ian McNulty

I looked into the pot of Monday red beans simmering on my stove and felt a twinge of envy. There they were, hundreds of them, all clustered together. The beans had more company than I’ve seen in weeks. Maybe it’s silly to envy your own supper, but I miss the closeness of a New Orleans crowd.

Ian McNulty

Café Porche & Snowbar is a small, low key Central City spot with good Creole flavors and a modern feel. People come for breakfast meetings, roll in for brunch or head over from the CBD for lunch. Kids stop by after school for snowballs from a stand built like a pint-sized fairy cottage trimmed in gingerbread and stocked with nectar.