At more raw bars now, it’s possible to slurp down oysters side by side that are from Louisiana, that taste markedly different from each other but that were grown practically a stone’s skip apart in local waters.
There’s a good chance oysters you’re eating like these were grown off Grand Isle, and more of them are headed our way.
This a different oyster from the reef-harvested Louisiana tradition ones. They’re often listed on menus by their geographic names or their brand names, denoting a specific farm. That’s why at places like Sidecar Patio & Oyster Bar downtown or Fives oyster bar on Jackson Square or even now good old Cooter Brown’s Tavern in the Riverbend, you’ll find oysters with names like Bright Side or Little Moons.
They’re often called AOC oysters, that stands for alternate oyster cultivation. That means an oyster grown from seed in enclosures that float on the surface, as opposed to oysters grown on reefs and raked up from the bottom.
This gives the oyster producer a more active hand in cultivating, to adjust for water conditions, and even to pull them out entirely if a hurricane threatens.
The process produces flavors that can vary from umami-rich to mineral-crisp, with a plump robust saltiness that endures even in summer. They look different, too, with thinner, lighter-colored shells formed as they roll around in the current.
This type of oyster cultivation has long been standard practice along the East and West coasts. But it’s still new along the Gulf Coast. Recently, Grand Isle has become a hub of production for the Louisiana iteration, and more waters are being designated for their growth here.
This all remains a boutique subset compared to the immense overall Louisiana oyster business.
But the oyster industry is contending with the environmental impacts of climate change, land loss and the coastal restoration projects aimed at blunting it all. Some see AOC oysters as a way to adapt and diversify.
For oyster lovers the upshot can be an iced platter offering a one-plate tour of different Louisiana flavors, and perhaps a taste of the future.
For wwno I’m ian Mcnulty
