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Where Y'Eat: As the Slow Season Drags, New Orleans Food Offers Summer Solace

The beauty of a Gulf shrimp boil
Ian McNulty
The beauty of a Gulf shrimp boil

Ah the shank of summer in Louisiana. Here we are, a time when we find the sunny side of the street, and avoid it. A time when we count the days until Labor Day, knowing it no way signals the end of summer around here, but merely the last leg.

 

Time might seem to drag. But it’s also the time to dive into the best the season gives us, including on the plate.

 

Louisiana food brings its own summertime specials, even if they’re more subtle than king cake or cochon de lait.

 

The simple beauty of Gulf shrimp, tragically undervalued, sometimes even here by us, is revealed when heaped on a boil tray or dabbed with remoulade.

 

And is there anything better than cool, large lumps of sweet crabmeat, not covered in sauce but dressed just as lightly as we all want to be on a summer day?

 

Lately, even raw oysters count as a light summer thrill. There are new brands of local, specially cultivated oysters at local farms, that have captured my cravings. They keep the same flavor and texture in summertime too, and show different expressions of the Louisiana oyster from farm to farm, and more oyster bars now serve them.

Or just go to a farmers market or a well-supplied grocery. Look at the colors and shapes of the fruit and vegetables, so resplendent now. You know what goes well with crisp, fresh vegetables? A crisp, cold glass of wine. Remember, this is about balance.

Or let someone else do the cooking. August in particular brings us Coolinary, the annual program of set price, multi course dining deals, at more than 130 restaurants around the area. This is a great time to book a dinner and catch up with friends while it's slow, and support our restaurants when it matters most.

 

I am not one to taunt a New Orleans summer. I respect its power too much. So I am not about to say bring it on. But since it’s here anyway, let’s count the blessings that get us through.

 

Ian covers food culture and dining in New Orleans through his weekly commentary series Where Y’Eat.