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Where Y’Eat: King Cake, and a Piece of Carnival Culture Made to Share

King cake is a symbol of Mardi Gras in New Orleans
Ian McNulty
King cake is a symbol of Mardi Gras in New Orleans

I am never tempted by king cake out of season. Tasty though any cake may be, they just don’t have the same appeal detached from Carnival time.

That’s because king cake isn’t just an excuse for midday dessert. Cutting into a king cake means taking part in Carnival tradition, and the joy is in sharing it.

It’s bringing one to a parade party, to the office, or just to a friend’s kitchen. It’s sharing the indulgence and telling whatever tale is attached to it, whether it’s the one you’ve been loyally eating since youth or one you tracked down from a new pop-up maker.  

With a short Carnival season now rolling, it’s time to dig in.

You do not want to get to the last weekend of Mardi Gras and realize you haven’t had your fill. Make the pilgrimage to your perennial favorite spot now, or put in the pre-order for that specialty cake that is calling your name. There will be a time during Carnival when you’re grabbing at pieces of king cake from a parade route folding table without knowing where it’s from, much less how long it’s been open. As with a wine tasting, have the good stuff now while the palate is fresh and the excitement is most keen.

This is not an entirely selfish pursuit.

The king cake business has become a massive part of the bottom line for local bakeries. It’s what many rely on to make it through the year, especially amid growing pressures of higher costs and the dreaded summer slump.

The significantly shorter season means more is at stake for the people who create king cakes.

The king cake you buy now can help ensure that neighborhood bakery you love is around for the long haul for your special occasion cakes, morning croissants and anytime visits.

You don’t have to eat it all yourself. King cake is a symbol of the season that is easy to share with family and friends far afield. In the pandemic, shipping king cakes out of town became a lifeline for many bakeries and restaurants and some have maintained the business line and grown adept at it.
By sharing the joy with others, you may be helping a local shop keeping rolling long after this Mardi Gras ends.

Ian covers food culture and dining in New Orleans through his weekly commentary series Where Y’Eat.