I admit it, this cold makes me a bit grumpy. It just doesn’t sit well in our subtropical city, not with what we endure in the summer.
But the silver lining on this puffy winter coat? It’s the time to indulge in cravings for those hearty, warming, soothing dishes, the kind we might actually eat year round, but which never hit quite like they do now.
We even call this gumbo weather, after all. But it hardly stops there. Wintry comfort food cravings make up a big tent, and lately New Orleans restaurants have giving us gratifying, rib-sticking flavor from around the world. Come along.
With even a hint of cold, there’s nothing like settling into a corner of the Bell, a snug British pub on Esplanade Avenue near City Park. This dish to get is the fishmonger pie, done with shrimp and white fish and with a cap of cheddar, all golden and sour and melty.
In Metairie, La Tia Cantina introduced me to the Mexican version of osso bucco, called chamorra. Just like the Italian version, the meat falls off the bone and into a thin sauce with the earthy warmth of chiles. Don’t miss the cocktails at La Tia either.
Over in Mid-City, off Tulane Avenue, you’ll find the rare appearance of beef Stroganoff at Hot & Soul, a funky little modern diner serving this Slavic soul food.
How about fondue night? Maybe you’re not always in the mood of an entire hors d’oeuvres station worth of wine-smacked cheese at the table, but in this cold weather I’m ready to give it a dunk. There’s a great one at La Crepe Nanou, the romantic French restaurant Uptown.
And here’s one a little closer to Louisiana tradition. The oyster and artichoke soup at Pulcinella, a new Italian restaurant in the Seventh Ward with an old soul. Ripples of oil and cream swirl over the surface around reefs of fried oysters that burst with the oyster juice still within.
See if there’s a show at the Original Nite Cap lounge just up the narrow staircase, or go up for a drink anyway to make a night of it. After all, it’s cold outside.
