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Where Y’Eat: More than Treats, Halloween Candy in New Orleans Is Food for Unity

Halloween candy is the basis for an essential civic pact, renewed door to door.
Ian McNulty
Halloween candy is the basis for an essential civic pact, renewed door to door.

I’ll never forget my first Halloween in New Orleans, because it was filled with shame.

I spent the night hiding at the back of my apartment, with the front lights off, dreading the little voices calling “trick or treat.”

I was new to town, I was much younger and I was blown away by how much fun Halloween was in New Orleans, which for a whole long weekend felt like one gigantic adult costume party.

And then the actual night of Halloween came around, and only then did I remember trick-or-treaters would be afoot. I had done nothing to prepare.

I vowed it would never happen again and have been going a bit overboard in the years since (yes, I'm the guy on the block with the stash of full-sized candy bars, the legend is real, come find me).

And now I’m here with a plea: Do whatever you want on this wonderful Halloween weekend, but make sure you do your part first. Have candy, be there for the trick-or-treaters, be there for your neighbors doing the same.

You’ll make memories, and you might even make your neighborhood a better place.

The spirit of Halloween is one kid, one house, one piece of candy and a line of memories made on one side of the transaction and rekindled on the other. Within that there is ritual and symbolism, and, I really believe, a chance for a greater social connection, something we feel in dire need of today.

Candy is the medium. In a holiday suspension of nutritional disbelief, a hunk of nougat covered in chocolate becomes an act of generosity and hospitality, maybe even unity.

Halloween is a family holiday, and it’s a social one too. Is there sometimes an ice chest for adults next to the candy bowl for kids? Maybe, maybe. Leave it to New Orleans to make trick-or-treating feel a little bit like tailgating.

But bottom line, Halloween can mean watching your neighborhood come together and participate in some make belief to make kids happy, a community effort where all other differences can at least temporarily vanish, like a ghost.

You just need to show up. And you've got to have candy.

Ian covers food culture and dining in New Orleans through his weekly commentary series Where Y’Eat.